A portrait of Vietnam

After a month and a half exploring Vietnam, we share a portrait of the country, highlighting severall impressions we gathered along this journey.

We are staying in a homestay (accomodation in the homes of locals), where the owners are true entrepreneurs. Besides the accommodation, they offer a wide range of services, from providing food to travel agency, laundry, motorbike and bicycle rentals, and basically anything else we might need. In fact, as soon as we arrive, we are promptly asked about our next destination, with a promise of help in organizing the next part of our trip.

In these homestays, we quickly adapt to local habits, such as the bathroom without separation between shower and toilet, or the custom of always being barefoot inside, which is common even in various public places like restaurants and some buses.

The warmth of the Vietnamese people is not limited to homestays, and can be found on every corner, namely in restaurants. It was in Vietnam that we expanded our concept of "esplanada" the name we give the outdoor space of a café, often envisioned here as a small stretch of sidewalk with mini tables and chairs. In restaurants and cafés, we are frequently greeted with complimentary tea, a courtesy that has become routine. Still, traveling with a coffee lover in the land of coffee, we often ordered egg coffee or salted coffee, specialties of the country. When we ordered the famous egg coffee, our request was quickly met, with the café owner gesturing to her husband, who reappeared moments later with fresh eggs in hand. The same happened with several other orders, where needs are met through quick interactions with neighboring people and shops, reflecting the strong community bonds in this country.

In Vietnam, we witnessed the contrast between tradition and modernity. On one hand, we see Vietnamese people working hard, wearing their characteristic bamboo hats, in sectors like agriculture and fishing, which sustain a large part of the economy. We also witness nature as an ally in these people's lives: from the fertile land that supports agriculture to the waters of the great Mekong River that provide for the livelihoods of riverside communities, and even to fire, which is essential for cooking in more rural areas and a source of warmth in colder regions.

On the other hand, we observed a rapid development of infrastructure and an increasing range of services. The sleeper buses, found all over the country with a wide variety of schedules, are an example of this (though they often come with an element of surprise). From transfers to different buses (which can range from the clumsy to the luxurious) to mini-van and boat journeys, we are always accompanied by energetic Vietnamese who guide us through the country to our next destination.

Whatever that may be, we consistently encounter impressive cultural richness. As a multi-ethnic country, we easily find different ethnic groups, each with their own traditions and languages. Even with very different languages and despite the language barrier, the Vietnamese are eager to communicate with us. Children focus on saying hello and asking our names. Some adults have learned essential words for their business, like “hello massage,” “cheap motorbike,” and “hello taxi.” Others quickly pull out a translator from their pocket to extend the conversation. Some even share that they learned to speak English through contact with tourists. 

In Vietnam, personal and professional life are closely intertwined. Many homes incorporate a commercial area at the entrance near the road, while the living room, open to the eyes of all, is the place where people gather to socialize, watch television, or have family meals. On the streets, it's common to see children playing badminton, or in more rural areas, simply socializing and smoking around a campfire, while national flags dance in the wind, proudly representing their country.

If there's one thing that truly characterizes Vietnam, it's the rivers of motorbikes that flood the streets of its cities. As time passed, our ability to navigate them improved, and by the end of the trip, we could honestly say that we could cross the street with our eyes closed.

This is "our" Vietnam, a country of contrasts, where past and present blend in a unique way, and where hospitality and cultural diversity welcome and embrace everyone.